And it rained and rained ……….

From drying mudflats in late November to the biggest flood ever recorded in the Daintree Valley late on December 17 and into the early hours of December 18.

December 12: We both felt quite pleased with our pre-cyclone preparation and this fruit bounty was a bonus. Shutters were installed on exposed louvre windows; paddles for the canoe in the carport; torches & headlamps charged.
December 13: Gusty winds increasing near the coast. Our solar system provider boosted our batteries to 100% from the grid at our request as we expected the mains power to drop out at any time. 30 minutes later the Ergon Energy supply died and the only reason we knew we had changed over to the stored energy in our batteries was a warning we received to turn off unnecessary items. Allen went to ‘hurry’ our cottage tenant, Dave, across to our house in the early afternoon as the gusts increased and we didn’t think it was safe for him to remain in the cottage. Minor flooding now meant there was no road out.
December 14: Celia’s birthday and I couldn’t phone or make any contact with her as Telstra had died during the night in spite of their new back-up generator. Dave wandered back to the cottage and Allen followed later with the gear he had brought over as we thought it was now safe for him to return to his home. He left his Suburu on our workshop verandah for protection from rain and floods.
December 15: Still no communication with the outside world. The weather seemed a bit calmer, the sky even cleared for short periods in the morning. Allen helped me move all the big pots of Anthuriums and other assorted exotic tropical plants back into their positions on the verandah.
December 16: Rain again overnight and river levels had risen when we had hoped they might have receded. This morning Allen moved all the pot plants back into their correct positions, rehung the tubular chimes which needed a new attachment and he helped me to hang the pottery chimes which I finished restringing yesterday. I decorated the potted fig tree for Christmas and put the coloured lights along the pelmet. While it looked like the showers might ease this morning, and we’d been feeling hopeful that the wet weather was over, they have become heavier again this afternoon and the water is rising

December 17: Continuous heavy rain through the night. Allen pulled the canoe across the grass closer to the house and tied it up, just in case. He couldn’t reach ‘pea-green’ (the old dinghy) as Jasper had blown a large tree across the track and he hadn’t been able to cut it all up.

Rain continued through the day. Allen checked the water level before we went to bed soon after 9pm. He set an alarm for 12.30am but something woke him soon after 11pm. When I heard him getting dressed and inquired what was happening he just gave me the spotlight and suggested I had a look. To my utter horror the water was already some distance across our lawn and rapidly closing the distance to our verandah. Needless to say, there are no photos as we rushed to save as much as possible by lifting onto high shelves or at least onto a table.
Dec 18: While I wasn’t noting the time it would have been after midnight when the advancing water started to come in under the doors and pouring through the louvres on the verandah. I began putting a few essential items into a small pack which I placed on the dining table. Our laptops, cameras and a few important notes were put into our highest cupboards where most of our photo albums were already stored.
As the water level in the carport rose around our batteries we sadly went through the shut down procedure for our solar back-up system. Soon afterwards, with the water still rapidly rising, Allen set off to retrieve our canoe with his head lamp lighting the way. Once he stepped off the verandah the water was around his waist level and with my heart racing I pointed a spotlight towards his destination so he had a homing beacon in case of head lamp failure. It was a huge relief to see both him and the canoe a few minutes later.
We’re struggling with the chronological order of events but I have a clear memory of grabbing our nail clippers from a bathroom drawer as it floated past me and of Allen walking the deep freeze, which was well afloat, into the corner of a bedroom and wedging it there so it couldn’t damage other furniture.
Grabbing the backpack and some drinking water, plus a pair of work boots for each of us, we both managed to get into the canoe with our headlamps on and paddled towards the cottage to rescue our tenant with whom we had no contact due to the lack of Telstra service. While our immediate watery landscape looked unfamiliar as we paddled around tree branches we had enough landmarks and familiar vegetation to keep on track. It was a surreal experience paddling to the door of the cottage, where after some difficulty, we finally got Dave plus extra drinking water plus packs loaded. We then returned to our verandah to get out of the torrential rain so we didn’t have to keep bailing water out of the canoe.
About 30 minutes later, after quietly watching the water level rise up the concrete blocks of the house wall Allen and I made a decision to paddle back past the cottage and head for the hill. After several tense moments due to our lack of freeboard and occasional passenger movement causing some frantic bailing with an icecream container, we finally reached land, not dry, but solid under our feet which was an immense relief. We picked our way around a fallen tree and walked up to a small, slightly leaky shelter well out of the flood zone.
After getting us all to relative safety Allen then started to worry about our chooks drowning and so he paddled back to the chook house. I knew he was safer on his own in the canoe and I have great faith in his practical approach to difficulties but I was still worried. The ‘rescue’ operation included a paddle into the flooded workshop to find tinsnips, and a return to the house verandah to take a wet towel off the clothesline. Finally I saw the glimmer of his head torch, and then realized he was holding 3 wet unhappy chooks in a sodden towel. We held onto one each until the sky began to lighten and Allen set off on his own again to find help. We settled the chooks, all still alive, under a large umbrella I just happened to have taken with me.
Over the next few hours, while Allen got us all to safety, he spent a lot of time in the canoe finding different routes through the trees as the water level dropped. We are immensely grateful to the new owners of Daintree Village Hotel, Che and Trent Mulley, who kindly and generously provided rescue assistance, food and shelter. I was also able to get a message to family via their Starlink connection as the entire Daintree Valley was still without Telstra connectivity. By late afternoon Che and Trent had set up their swags for us in our friend Neville’s shed in the village and we gratefully put our heads on pillows. Not much sleep but a relief to be warm, dry and safe.

Neville has a number of water containers as well as above ground ponds which provide habitat for several frog species. The cacophony of frog calls in the evenings we found very soothing in our fragile state.

December 19: Neville, who was recovering from open-heart surgery, had his brother Noel staying with him and they both provided care, comfort and food for us for the first few days. Still without Telstra communication there was a continual stream of locals exchanging information and listening to each other’s stories. In the afternoon Noel drove us to our still partially flooded driveway and watched as Allen pulled the canoe, with me aboard, across to the other side. Noel said he would return in 2 hours which would give us time to have a preliminary look around.

December 20: The waters receded and traffic into the village increased – we seemed to spend most of the morning talking to various people in between some initial sorting and washing. Our dear friends, Roisin and David drove out in the afternoon – taking the first of numerous loads of washing with them as well as some very silty earrings which Roisin rescued, mostly still attached to a sodden cork board. Roisin’s photo of our house interior below gives some idea of the chaos. Everything on top of Allen’s desk (including the printer) still in place but the desk has floated to a new position.

4 weeks after that scary night we are pleased with what we have managed to salvage but still a long way from re-establishing ourselves on site. The contents of both the house and the cottage have been removed and sorted for washing, repair or disposal and the interiors have been pressure cleaned. We have been greatly assisted by Stephen Wallace and Tina as well as Stephen’s brother Bruce who located a suitable vehicle for us and is now in the process of delivering it to Cairns. We are fortunate to have friends offering practical help as well as many friends who, along with family continue to send us messages of support. It all makes a difference and keeps us both moving in a positive direction – some days a bit slower than others!

Mudflat activity continued……

Please be warned that this post is all about one of my favourite Daintree water birds which I first saw nesting on Barratt Creek in 1986. At that stage we were a long way from restoration work and any bird activity away from the narrow esplanade along Barratt Creek was minimal. At various times we would hear the throaty call of a Great-Billed Heron and when we eventually had a boat on the creek we often saw one perched or if we disturbed it we would watch its majestic form flying above the water as it flew ahead of us towards the main river.

Once we had established wetlands in the early 2000s I was thrilled to occasionally catch a glimpse of a Great-billed Heron or know from it’s call that it was not far away. Now some twenty years later sightings are more frequent although being in a suitable location with a camera at hand is another story! This particular bird we are presuming is a regular visitor as it seems to be less nervous. We also presume that it has been watching us more than we have seen it and has now decided that we are not such a threat. I hope so.

After flying up to perch in a nearby Leichhardt tree (good sturdy horizontal branches) as I approached our rather open ‘hide’ this Great-billed Heron started to relax and preen. I tried to remain as unobtrusive as possible and eventually it flew down to the mudflat right in front of the hide.

I loved watching the slow and careful footsteps as the bird approached the water, seemingly it was totally focused on any potential prey movement.

I was poised, ready to record some action…………

Then it turned around and walked slowly in the other direction before having another preen.

After all that potential excitement it was then back to the favourite game of ‘statues’ – a very typical pose.

At last the waters recede

After such regular rainfall through the ‘winter’ months I thought our main mudflats were, once again, to remain an underwater mystery. Luckily ‘the tap’ was turned off for a few weeks as the heat increased and much to the delight of several bird species, in addition to the resident humans, the mud was revealed in all it’s glory with lots of yummy insects.

At first glance it may appear a somewhat drab outlook, however there is a veritable feast awaiting avid foragers such as the Buff-banded Rail in the photo above. It shared the space quite amicably with a couple of Pale-vented Bush-hens and a Jacana which, although often seen on the water lilies, couldn’t resist the abundant caterpillars on the mudflat.

A visiting Oriental Cuckoo joined in the feast and occasionally a White-browed Crake would sneak out from the cover of the sedge to feed quite manically in the shallows.

It is lovely to have the opportunity to actually see some of the birds that reside here. When the water levels are high we often hear the calls but it is fun to watch the interactions between the species feeding together. The White-browed Crake, which does tend to be a timid species, runs for cover as soon as the Jacana approaches.

Our camera doesn’t really cope with the distance but it was such fun to see the Shining Flycatcher share the perch with the Azure Kingfishers for a few minutes.

I started uploading these photos a few days ago and since then we’ve had more than 80mm of steady rain which is a wonderful soaking and has cheered up the vegetation that was starting to look a bit thirsty. The downside is that the retrieval of the weeds that I left on the edge of the mud are no longer ‘on the edge’. Looks like it is going to be another very muddy experience!

Cassowary catch up

Since my last update I had only one more sighting of both birds together, when they joined me in the shadehouse for a few minutes, and then the adult male has appeared by himself on several occasions and seems much more relaxed. I had one sighting of the juvenile cassowary walking along the water’s edge of the ’07 wetland a few weeks ago. Then this week he/she made a nervous approach to the fruiting Jaboticaba outside the kitchen, obviously very aware that he was encroaching on ‘Dad’s’ territory and ready to run. Allen tried getting a photo but the young bird was much too jittery to hang around. It’s a hard time learning to survive on your own.

The adult male had a thorough preening session following a Jaboticaba lunch, then he strolled off to rest under the shade of a Pandanus before returning later for more snacks.
In bright light the neck colours are intense – he is very handsome and has distinct markings on the rear left hand side of his casque.

Although the Jaboticaba has nearly finished this fruiting session we’ve been able to enjoy some good views of the Cassowary as the fruit bats knock down a lot of fruit when they’re feeding at night. It’s a popular area with bird baths at various heights and we watched our handsome Vorwerk rooster attempt to assert his territorial rights with the male Cassowary one afternoon. The result was somewhat predictable but still most amusing. After a couple of warning ‘looks’ did nothing to deter the rooster the Cassowary lowered his head and with feathers swishing from side to side he chased all the domestic chooks around to the other side of the house.

A few days later when the Vorwerks were enjoying some foraging in the garden, and the big bird had been absent for a couple of hours, I went out to take some photos of them.

Just as I had them all in the frame the dominant cockerel gave a warning cackle while looking upwards. With a good idea of what might be causing the alarm I looked over my shoulder to find the big bird close behind so I slowly stood up and offered to take a photo of him too!

I wasn’t frightened as his behaviour is not at all threatening now that he has shed the responsibility of caring for his offspring. All the same, I follow Allen’s example of talking quietly while always looking towards the bird.

Look who’s back and this time…..

Recently we have been seeing evidence of Cassowary visitation around our orchard and along some of our tracks. From the size of the droppings we knew there was an adult bird as well as a younger although we had no idea if they were travelling together. This morning the mystery was revealed with two birds appearing outside our kitchen window as they picked around looking for some Jaboticaba fruit.

After taking a few photos through the window I ventured into the carport but the youngster was curious and walked towards me so I backed away to avoid any potential conflict with the male. The male appeared quite calm so we were not surprised to find, after comparing head shots of the bird who last visited in March ’22, that it is the same bird.

As the birds wandered away from the house towards the vegetable garden I took a couple of steps away from the carport for one last photo of them leaving – and that was one step too far for Mr Cassowary. In a flash his head was down and he was running towards me. I took off for shelter behind our outside shower screen then retreated to the house which allowed my heart rate to return to normal. The big birds left the house environs soon afterwards and I went on with my gardening pursuits later in the morning while keeping a watchful eye open just in case.

It doesn’t matter how many times I see them they are truly awesome.

Orchid flower decorations

Like many of us, I love flowers although I rarely pick them to arrange inside. I started this post at the end of last year and then put it to one side. So, from the ‘draft folder’ is a short but rather nice reminder of a happy nesting event.

Pigeon orchids – Ceraia saaronica – flower in response to heavy rainfall. While the onset of the wet season rains are a good trigger we also see sporadic flowering at other times after rain.

Pigeon Orchid – Ceraia saaronica – delicate, sweet scented flowers which barely last for a day.
A sunbird nest attached somewhat precariously to an orchid stem right outside our bedroom.
Sunbird nest with young – the tissue-like white decorations are petals from the Pigeon orchid which was flowering in November just when the female Sunbird was ready to add some final touches to her nest. A Black Butcherbird regularly patrols our verandah looking for easy prey and with the nest visible from our bed we would wake in the morning and check to make sure the youngsters were still alive before we started our day. Amazingly they both managed to fledge – we can’t be sure how things went after that but we like to imagine they made it to adulthood.

Unexpected Encounters

During a quiet read after lunch I was vaguely aware of a scrabbling sound coming from the other end of the house. Being deeply engrossed in my book it took quite a few seconds to realize that it couldn’t be a branch scraping against the house as we keep our house clear of vegetation. As I went to investigate I met a youngish Lace Monitor coming along the passageway. I spoke to it in a quiet voice suggesting it would be best if it returned from whence it came and so it turned around heading back into the guest room. As it had been a fresh breezy day I had earlier opened the sliding glass door, leaving the screen door in place but it’s a bit loose in its track and easily pushed to one side – I imagine that entry was gained by accident but who knows?

Lace Monitor (Varanus varius) looking out the window quite calmly.

I took this photo while lying across the bed so I could get into a suitable position without being too close. I didn’t want to cause panic as I had no wish to find out what those claws would do to my skin! I was simply delighted at such a close encounter – it didn’t take very long for the monitor to see the opening and so my unexpected guest was soon back into the safety of the garden.

Heading back out into the garden.

Last October we had a much smaller version of the above which I think gained access through ill-fitting louvres. As we often have skinks coming into the house at first I presumed the movement in my peripheral vision was that of a skink but the moment I looked properly it was obvious it was a very young monitor. Luckily I managed to catch it quite quickly as trying to move across the tiled floor was making it panic.

Such perfection – a rare treat to be able to look so closely and take a quick photo. Pity I didn’t think to remove the foot fluff before taking the photo; evidence of an inside excursion!

We also have unexpected appearances from plants which have quietly established themselves and then announce their presence with some lovely flowers. I noticed these flowers when I was working on weed eradication nearby so I took some time to enjoy them.

Dioclea hexandra is quite a rare climber in this region

Taking time to enjoy the moment

For the last couple of months I’ve been gradually working my way around our house, cleaning and painting whenever the weather has been fine and sunny. I’m now onto the final wall which just happens to have been the most tedious to prepare and so I’ve been more easily distracted than usual from the work in hand. Listening to loud calls of a Great-billed Heron a couple of days ago gave me a great excuse to down tools and head to the bird hide. Not a water-bird in sight, but just as I was about to leave I noticed our resident crocodile, Betty, was slowly swimming around the pond. She provided a perfect excuse to indulge in a few peaceful minutes of observation until she hid behind some water chestnut.

Native stingless bees have established nests, or attempted to, in many places on our concrete block house. Green Ants use the house as a highway, spiders make webs and occasionally Sunbirds make nests. A Black Butcherbird regularly patrols the verandah looking for frogs and baby birds so the populations are kept in balance. Sometimes I think the Butcherbird might be taking more than his share but the frogs are still around, they have just got better at hiding! Anyway, back to the cleaning which disturbed the Green Ants and then the bees got nervous and suddenly there was a cloud of upset bees and some brutal murders taking place on the wall.

An interesting star pattern of ants but a rather gruesome end for the poor little stingless bee.

Another creature to suffer disturbance from my activities along the wall was this delicate and very striking Humped Silver Orb-weaver. When I first noticed it there was no web (I suspect I had blundered into it, intent on my cleaning work), and it was running up and down a single strand of web. I managed a couple of photos when it had a rest on the wall.

Leucauge dromedaria – Humped Silver Orb-weaver

Yesterday the spider had rebuilt its web but unfortunately the victims of its sticky strands were native bees – they have certainly been having a tough time here.

In the family Tetragnathidae (Long-jawed spiders) the Humped Silver Orb-weaver is found in parks and gardens from north Qld all the way south to Tasmania.
The afternoon light shows the delicate web and highlights the spider’s light green legs.

And the day I saw Betty I did return to the hide with a camera after lunch just in time to see her emerged from the water onto the bund wall to bask in the sun. It was such a treat to be able to see her out of the water, they are amazing creatures and deserve to be treated with respect for many different reasons.

Out of ‘Graham’s Pond’ and resting on the bund wall in the sun.
I find it particularly interesting to watch her move – trying to maximize her sun exposure then having to open her mouth to cool down a bit. In this side view it’s just possible to see some of the unique markings along the tail.

Autumn-Winter update ’22

While the temperatures were still quite high towards the end of summer this cheeky Carpet Python decided to cool off while perhaps hoping for a snack. As we felt it was probably not in a ‘sharing mood’ with all the birds wanting a turn in the birdbaths, the snake was gently encouraged to leave.

This unusual sight required gentle intervention.
A healthy and very clean snake!

Our tropical winter has seemed quite cool this year but this is very much a subjective observation. As we rely on passive climate control in our house we have been closing doors and some windows in the late afternoon to try and retain some warmth. I know that as we head towards our summer season these cool temperatures will rapidly become a distant memory.

In the last few weeks the Green Orioles have been announcing a change of the seasons, especially notable during their morning dawn chorus. The migratory Metallic Starlings have returned, chittering in the trees as they discuss their recent travel experiences and the Rufous Fantail which has been a frequent visitor to the birdbath for the last few months is no longer with us.

Pandercetes gracilis – Australian Lichen Spider

Now that I’ve identified this spider with Greg Anderson’s assistance I have found it in the garden on several occasions in spite of it’s very clever camouflage.

After consistent, steady rain yesterday it was lovely to get outside this morning for a walk around the tracks. Not many flowers at this time of the year but there is more than just green in a rainforest when you look closely.

Dillenia alata – Red Beech
Once a mowed path, now a natural track crossed by tree roots requiring some careful footsteps.
Floscopa Scandens

We originally identified a remnant patch of this plant with the help of a local botanist who said it was becoming harder to find. As it belongs to Commelinaceae it was not hard to propagate and plant in a few swampy areas. It is now well established and provides a lovely groundcover contrasting with areas of sedge along the edge of the wetlands.

Subtle colour but Floscopa Scandens has such a pretty flower.

When I returned from my walk I found this Green Tree snake moving along behind my plant pots on the verandah. We thought it was probably on a hunt for frogs but a Black Butcherbird keeps a close eye on our house frogs and they have got very good at hiding during the daylight hours.

Dendrelaphis punctulata – Green Tree snake

Oh hello – you magnificent bird!

The sound of Allen chatting quietly in our bathroom last Sunday morning alerted me to the visit of a cassowary. While this may seem odd, he doesn’t usually talk to himself and he has a particular tone he uses when talking to cassowaries.

Such an amazing sight – right outside the bathroom.

I was astonished to see the size of this bird standing just a few metres away on the lawn – definitely a different, older bird compared to our most recent visiting cassowary. As we stepped outside to take some photos she walked towards us, so we stood still and continued talking quietly. She emphasized her size by stretching upwards and gave a short rumble before moving away slightly to look around.

I just couldn’t take my eyes off the size of her legs and feet!
For reference, the pavers are 400mm x 400mm.

She is a mature bird but not very old judging by the size of the casque. We believe that the size of her feet identifies her as female. We wondered if she may have chased off the younger cassowary but later in the afternoon the younger cassowary appeared again. Our domestic chooks who had been pecking around in front of the verandah suddenly took off in fright as the younger cassowary strolled past on the lawn.

The younger cassowary which Allen now thinks is a male, due to the slightly drooping tail feathers seen here so beautifully displayed.

The next morning, washing dishes and occasionally casting my gaze around outside I thought perhaps all the action was over for the moment but a few minutes later the younger of the two birds approached the other side of the house. As I greeted it with ‘there you are…’ it briefly stepped onto the verandah, then turned to check a wind chime for edibility before walking off downhill.

The next day we left early for Cairns leaving the chooks locked up in their secure pen with extra greens for the day, as Allen thought the python sunning near the outdoor enclosure was a little close for comfort.

Amethystine python basking in the morning light and showing some amethyst colours.

Probably the same python which caused a night-time disturbance recently. I was in our outside shower when one of the chooks started screaming so grabbing my glasses and some sandals I took off after Allen who had sensibly grabbed a torch. We both expected to find a chook being strangled by a python. There was a python but it was on the floor of the shed with a mouthful of feathers and a furious Layla (our blue egger) standing next to it still screaming and giving it an occasional peck! Allen opened the door and ‘encouraged’ the snake to leave but it took quite some effort to persuade it to move on. The snake had made a hole in some rusty wire which was repaired by Allen the following day.

Anyway…….. back to cassowaries. Daily sightings of at least one bird continued for the week. We’ve been pondering what fruit is attracting them. A couple of weeks ago Allen identified Ficus hispida in a scat but in recent days we have noticed both birds have very muddy legs and feet. As the Nauclea orientalis (Leichhardt trees) are fruiting we think both birds have been in the swampy areas. This theory is also supported by the tracks they are using.

Strolling across our front lawn with fresh mud on her legs and a cloud of mozzies on the black feathers.

On Friday afternoon Allen walked down to the bird hide just to check out the pond scene. All fairly quiet but he did spy the young cassowary on the bund wall and with a ‘oh there you are’ he took a few photos. Hearing footsteps a few minutes later he opened the door of the hide thinking I had come to join him but it was the young cassowary standing half-way down the stone steps just wanting to see what was happening.

Just standing around preening and wondering what’s happening next.
We treat these birds with respect and it feels like it’s a mutual arrangement. Allen took this lovely portrait.

What a wonderful week it has been, with so many special moments worth recording. We have constant reminders that we form only a very small part of the big picture and we need to do our best to fit in.